Common Problems 1997 - 2001 Honda CRV RD1 RD2

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Door harness repair kit: http://mintonperfrftdormance.com
Crank Pulley Socket: https://amzn.to/3pJYkvi​
Honda Bond: https://amzn.to/3asikMC​
Felpro part number OS 30630 T.
B Felpro Oil Pan Gasket: https://amzn.to/3cFDMQP​
B20 timing set: https://amzn.to/3cD6baq​
Hoist Air Cylinder: https://amzn.to/3ri7SOt​
12mm Adjustment tool: https://amzn.to/3cyIIXK​
Feeler Gauges: https://amzn.to/3rhpUQL​

Cam Cap: https://amzn.to/3fe2980
Valve Cover Gasket: https://amzn.to/2RMwXV4
Cabin filter: https://amzn.to/3BwQ7Di
2 post lift: https://amzn.to/3oK29PQ

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSZoI0i40a8

1999 CR-V EX, 267K miles two years ago the a/c compressor went (part $168/ + $120 install) and charge, 2 rear links and the cruise control does not work, the clock in the center of the console doesn't work and I had to replace the door pull latch drivers side, $11 for the part and about 20 mins of my time. That's it. Best car I ever owned.

The clock didn't work in mine when I first bought it. I took it out, disassembled it and followed a tutorial on here to reflow solder. Worked like a charm. Just be careful when removing it from the dash as the dash is soft and likes to crack when leveraged against. :)
Was able to fix the clock in my old first gen with a $10 sottering iron. Only issue i had for the 30,000 miles of ownership i had was a sticky thermostat.
I tried to fix my clock with a solidering iron, I plugged it in, came on for 2 seconds and went back out.
I tried to solder as much as I can but couldn't get under a circuit board plate..the plate is like glued on.
I bought.a LED kit on Amazon for about $10 that fits inside the existing case.
Also tried to solder two diff oem clocks, works intermittently. Seems like the problem is in the wiring harness which i’d rather not deal with.

I have owned a 98 CRV since it was new, a common problem I have had is that the electronic air control valve bolted to the back of the intake manifold becomes fouled, causing rough idle. It needs to be cleaned with brake cleaner every 10,000 miles or so. Keeps the car idling smooth.
Every 10k miles sounds like over kill lol maybe once a year️
yes i replaced 2 IACV already in addition to the cleanings in between @210K miles

One issue that there was with mine is on the ignition switch. There is a small harness about 4 inches long that connects the ignition to the wiring harness. The ignition wire fails, causing the car to cut out while driving, and you have to restart. In the beginning it happens intermittently, but get to a point where you start the car and it dies immediately, and to replace it costs a small fortune in my country. I solved the problem by brigding the ACC switch and the ignition switch with a small piece of wire. This was 9 years ago and never had problems again. Only drawback, when you switch the car on at ACC the dash lights up.

I swapped the rear diff for the unit from the 2008-11 Element, and it makes a huge difference! Drives much more like a car, the original diff makes it feel like a heavy truck, even though it's a unibody.
It's not hard to replace the diff, it's very accessible. The power feels much better, it completely changes the driving feel of the CR-V, feels like a nimble car instead of a truck, even on the snow. It's an exact fit because they used the same casing as the original unit, which makes sourcing one difficult, they only way to tell which one has the upgrade is by model year.
I didn't notice any difference in noise between the new and old diff, but neither seems loud

passenger side water on the floor. I have dealt with this issue on a few of them. On the roof there is a black strip that runs from the windshield to the rear window. There is a body seam under that trim and the sealant cracks. The water enters the body seam, runs down the a-piller then behind the dash and onto the floor.
On mine... a dirty, cruddy door seal that directs water into the car. The seal has a fold that has to be opened up and cleaned out.

I love my 1st Gen CRV. I do have some issues but for the most part, these cars are tanks. A true testament to Japanese quality cars when they were still made in Japan.

I have 1995 model and still running good today.

My 2001 I bought with 32,000 on it in 2008, now has almost 400,000 on it.
The manual transmission is bulletproof. I've replaced all the ball joints once. And one front wheel bearing.
It' has the original CV axles. I disassembled and regreased them. And put on new boots.